Iceland

Aug 30 – Sept 9

Land of Fire and Ice

You don’t travel to Iceland for predictable weather. During our trip, we experienced everything from driving rain and freezing winds to warm, sunny afternoons where t-shirts were enough. The weather could change in minutes, and despite arriving with waterproof gear, we quickly discovered Iceland requires serious rain protection. We both ended up buying new rain jackets after ours soaked through almost immediately.

What Iceland lacks in predictability, it makes up for in unforgettable experiences. From glaciers and volcanoes to black sand beaches and geothermal rivers, Iceland felt wild, raw, and constantly alive.

Reykjavík

We arrived in Reykjavík with two days to explore before meeting our Backroads group. The city immediately charmed us with its colorful streets, lively atmosphere, and incredible food scene.

Restaurants We Loved:

  • Pósthús Food Hall
  • Fish Company
  • Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur — famous Icelandic hot dogs that absolutely lived up to the hype

Accommodations:

Driving the Golden Circle

We rented a car and spent our first full day exploring Iceland’s famous Golden Circle.

Highlights included:

  • Þingvellir National Park — a UNESCO World Heritage Site where you can walk between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates
  • Geysir Geothermal Area — home to Strokkur, which erupts boiling water high into the air every few minutes
  • Gullfoss — one of Iceland’s most iconic waterfalls, crashing dramatically into a rugged canyon

That evening we had dinner at Pósthús Food Hall, an upscale food hall with beautifully designed dining rooms, each with its own distinct atmosphere. The food was fantastic.

After dinner, we wandered down Laugavegur Street and stumbled into what appeared to be a bookstore, only to discover it had transformed into a live music venue. “The Bookstore Band” plays there more than 350 nights a year, performing everything from classic rock to modern hits with rotating musicians. We loved it so much we returned two more nights during the trip.

Sky Lagoon

The next day we visited Sky Lagoon  Sky Lagoon Iceland | Hot Springs Spa near Reykjavík  and absolutely loved it.

Although we originally had reservations at the famous Blue Lagoon, we switched after hearing Sky Lagoon offered a more modern experience. The oceanfront infinity pool, floor-to-ceiling sauna views, and the seven-step “Skjól Ritual” made for one of the most relaxing days of the trip.

That evening we enjoyed our favorite meal of the entire vacation at Fish Company before heading back for another night with The Bookstore Band.

Waterfalls, Glaciers, and Ice Lagoons

Once we met our Backroads group, the adventure level increased quickly.

We stopped at Seljalandsfoss, where we walked behind the waterfall and were completely drenched in the process. It was absolutely worth it.

Later, we hiked the Skálafelljökull Loop, a six-mile trail with sweeping views of glaciers and the coastline.

The following day we hiked on Falljökull, a dramatic outlet glacier filled with crevasses, blue ice, and towering formations called seracs.

Wearing crampons and carrying ice axes, we followed our guide across the glacier while learning about glacial geology, moulins, and ice formations.

That afternoon we boarded zodiac boats at Fjallsárlón and cruised past enormous floating icebergs. At one point we heard a huge crash as part of a glacier calved into the lagoon.

Nearby, we visited Diamond Beach, where chunks of ice float onto the black sand shoreline.

Black Sand Beaches 

One of the most unique excursions took us to Ingólfshöfði. We climbed into a tractor-pulled cart and crossed shallow water and black sand flats to reach a remote seabird sanctuary about 4km away.

The scenery felt otherworldly — towering black sand dunes, steep cliffs, crashing waves, and endless ocean views. To return to the tractor, we sledded down a massive sand dune at high speed, laughing the entire way.

That evening our guide mentioned cold plunging in the river beside the hotel before warming up in the communal hot tub. Excited to try it, I rushed down before dinner and stepped into the river… only to discover it was warm, almost hot. When I confronted our guide about his “cold plunge joke,” he laughed and explained I had jumped into the wrong river. Determined not to give up, I found the correct icy river the next morning and finally “enjoyed” the frigid plunge.

Westman Islands and Puffins

The Westman Islands were beautiful and fascinating.

As we arrived on Heimaey by ferry, we met a local man carrying a rescued baby puffin to release back into the wild. Baby puffins traditionally navigate by moonlight when learning to fly, but modern streetlights can confuse them, causing them to crash-land in town instead. Every year, the island community — including schoolchildren — spends evenings rescuing lost puffins and helping them return safely to the sea.

We hiked from Mount Helgafell to Eldfell, the volcanic cone created during the famous 1973 eruption that surprised the townspeople and covered much of the town. Steam still rises from the ground in places, and we could actually feel heat radiating from holes in the lava rock.

To return to the mainland, we suited up in dry suits and goggles and sped across the ocean in a rib boat — another unforgettable Icelandic adventure.

Thórsmörk and the Northern Lights

Our Super Jeep day brought us deep into Þórsmörk, known as “The Valley of Thor.”

The drive alone was thrilling, with river crossings and rugged terrain that would be impossible in a regular vehicle. The hikes through valleys, glaciers, and moss-covered mountains were some of the most beautiful we have ever experienced.

During one hike, we discovered the trail had literally disappeared overnight after a river changed course. In Iceland, nature always seems to have the final say.

At 2 a.m., our hotel phone rang. The northern lights were making an appearance. We quickly layered on warm clothes and rushed outside to watch with the other hotel guests. It was magical. 

Ion Adventure Hotel

The following morning we hiked through the stunning Hengill geothermal region, passing steaming vents, dramatic gorges, and one of Iceland’s major geothermal plants. We learned that thanks to the island’s abundant geothermal energy, Icelanders pay an average of only $5 per month for heat and hot water. Because it’s so inexpensive, we noticed that hotels were almost too hot and we found ourselves opening our windows at night to keep our rooms cool.

Final Thoughts

We ended our trip back in Reykjavík the same way we began it — with another dinner at Fish Company followed by one final night listening to The Bookstore Band.

Beyond the incredible scenery and friendly people, what struck us most was how alive Iceland feels. We landed while a volcano was erupting. We hiked glaciers that are constantly moving. We watched rivers carve new paths overnight.

Iceland is never still. Its landscapes are changing in real time, shaped by fire, ice, water, and weather. That raw, untamed energy is what makes it unlike anywhere else we have ever traveled.

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